When I met an Aghori !
I have always had a fascination for mysticism, in spite or maybe because of my keen interest in science.
Aghori is a sect in the left path (Tantra) of Hinduism. From wiki “The Aghori are a small group of ascetic Shaiva sadhus. They engage in post-mortem rituals. They often dwell in charnel grounds, smear cremation ashes on their bodies and use bones from human corpses for crafting kapalas and jewelry. Their practices are contradictory to orthodox Hinduism.” The last statement stems from ignorance of Hinduism, as there isn’t a fixed path.
The fear of them comes from the post-mortem rituals. It is rumored that they excavate human(dead, obviously) bodies for their rituals and even consume them. The root of this practice goes back to the practice of energy bodies et al, but that's a too detailed topic to get into in this blog.
Like many interesting encounters in my life, this wasn't planned. I and some of my friends had just aborted ascent to Vasuki Tal. We trekked up to Tapovan which is 4–5 days trek from Gangotri, the temple village celebrated as the birthplace of river Ganga (known as Bhagirathi). Actual birthplace though is a couple of days trek and 26 KM from Gangothri called Gomukh (Gomukh is the head of the Ganga glacier and literally means face of the cow due to the shape of the cave from which it originates.)
We had to abort as one of the team members got inflicted with pulmonary edema a deadly condition in high altitudes. We trekked back overnight and got him admitted to a military hospital at Harshil (9000ft altitude).
We checked into a small hotel on the roadside and were lounging around waiting for him to recover so we can go back to our homes.
That is when I decided to just wander around on my own around the village. I learned quickly that the hill around the area is called sattal (7 lakes) and there are indeed 7 lakes at various altitude. And then they said there is an Aghori baba near the 7th lake.
I started climbing the hill and soon enough encountered part of the village perched in between. Some villagers I met on the path, greeted me and enquired in Hindi.
Kahan Ja Rahen Hai? (where are you off to ?)
I said sat tal.
Akele aye hai kya? (Are you alone ?)
I said yes.
Apko akele nahin Jana chahiye. (You shouldn’t go alone.)
I politely smiled and told them I will go for a short one and continued my journey. Same questions repeated a few other times and I tactfully answered that my friends will join me in a while.
I walked slowly and quickly crossed the first 5 lakes. Around the 6th lake, there was a large rock overlooking the valley. There is some bliss in sitting like this(there is some evolutionary memory linked to perches like this.)
I rested, took deep breaths and took in the views before me. And then this majestic site of a gliding bird happened. It happened so quickly and like in a trance, I forgot to click the pic. The bird is an endangered species called griffin vulture.
After a few more blissful minutes, I decided to trek briskly to the 7th lake and hike back. That is when I saw the hut, small with little smoke coming out of it. I knew it was Aghori baba’s. I walked to the front of the house and hesitantly peaked in.
It was full of metallic contraptions hung over a huge Agni Kunda (fire pit) with a lot of ash in it. Not sure what to do I lingered, then the aghori baba emerged from the side of the house. Smeared completely in ash and naked he was surprised to see me. I quickly greeted him which he reciprocated and then in Hindi asked the same question.
Akele Ayen ho kay? (Have you come alone)
I said yes, with a polite smile.
He had a poker face expression and then said,
Nahin ana tha. (You shouldnt have).
I wasn't sure how to react and while I was mulling on it, he surprised me with the next question.
Chai Peyoge ? (will you have some tea).
Although startled no red flags went up, so I went in. He made tea (the kettle was already on the fire) and we chatted about what he does. Unsurprisingly he was evasive and gave evasive answers. I stopped after a while and we chatted about the village, Himalayas, etc.
I thanked him and left wondering what an interesting day it turned out to be.
